William Waterkeyn continues as gifted winemaker though the domaine is under new ownership. The policy is now to keep all the domaine fruit for their own label, and indeed from 2021 a further five hectares (a mix of Bourgogne Rouge and Village Santenay) which had been leased out will be taken back. The domaine wines are supplemented by a few additional negociant cuvées.

Picking began with white grapes on 24th August. The average yield was 35 hl/ha across the domaine., with degrees from 13 to 13.5% in Santenay but richer in the north hitting 14% in Pommard.  The reds are destemmed, vinified without sulphur and kept in barrel for up to 18 months. The whites and some reds had been racked to tank when I tasted, other reds being still in barrel, unracked.

WHITE

2020, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Maison Jessiaume 85

In bottle. Negociant grapes, mostly from the Côte Chalonnaise, with a bit of domaine fruit from Prarons Dessous. Pale lemon colour. Slight tropical fruits and a sweet style of fruit on the palate (albeit vinified fully dry). A touch of pineapple to finish. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Rully, Maison Jessiaume 87-89

Purchased grapes from the Chatalienne vineyard. Pale lemon and lime colour. The bouquet has a mix of fruits, some more exotic than others. Much cleaner and purer in the mouth with fresh apple notes behind, and good acidity with a mineral tingle. Fine persistence. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay, Maison Jessiaume 87-89

Purchased grapes from En Foulot. Fine pale lemon and lime colour. Quite a rich nose with a few exotic notes. Some of the pineapple notes again. Perfumed honeysuckle. In the mouth the wine is a little less evidently ripe, with white fruit and good acidity. Yet the honeysuckle remains in control. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92

Pure pale lemon. The bouquet contains a suggestion of limestone and is less ripe than some of the purchased grape cuvées. Back to the fresh apple profile. Then on the palate the fruit shows additional ripeness, with plums and a certain sucrosity which is not displeasing. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91

Pale lemon colour. The bouquet has ripe apples in the ascendant. This has a stricter style to the fruit but still considerable flesh. There is an agreeable crunchy granny smith quality on the palate, white fruit, some power and length. Well made. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Meursault, Maison Jessiaume 89-91

Purchased grapes, mostly from the lower slope. Pale colour. Ripe rich fruit with a touch of bacon spice. Lively lemon scented fruit too. Good weight here, with depth of ripe citrus, this is fleshing out nicely while retaining balance and a good mineral streak. Tasted: December 2021

RED

2020, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Maison Jessiaume 86

In bottle. Purchased grapes from old vines in Couchois. More crimson than purple, a little bit vegetal. A slatey touch which I often find in Couchois wines. Quite intense more strawberry than raspberry, some tannins, firm acidity but the fruit continues through in a long finish. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay Clos du Clos Genet, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Fine, pretty, relatively pale (for the vintage) purple. Immediately juicy strawberry and cherry fruit. There is a fine balance between fruit and acidity with tannins scarcely noticeable. The fruit continues very nicely behind. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay La Comme 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88

A little depth of crimson purple. Ripe raspberry in a very sensual fruit forward style. Not so much in depth and a touch volatile at the back though I don’t pick it on the nose. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90

This year for the first time the domaine has vinified all their Gravières though they have taken out some of the oldest vines for a separate wine. Clear bright purple. Ripe and deep cherry, a very 2020 nose. A little bit closed down on the palate and some dry tannins. Not quite ready to speak yet and I don’t know if the vintage or the terroir will end up taking the lead. If the latter, this wine will rate more highly in the future. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92

This new cuvée represents 10% of the whole Gravières holding, making use of the 60-70- year old vines from old massal selections, below the windmill. Still in barrel. Fine dense bright purple. The power of the vintage is apparent but the fruit is not cooked. Clean fresh bright red fruit, concentrated with good acidity and a fine classy finish without too much heat. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Slightly lighter ruby purple, with a fine fresh bouquet, very promising. Crisp, almost crunchy red strawberry fruit with good tannins and a fresh finish. Typical of the appellation and the vintage has just made the fruit a touch more generous. A good success. A little white pepper tingle to finish Tasted: December 2021

2020, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-91

Fuller purple and clearly a riper nose, not necessarily a plus point in 2020. But no, the balance has been retained, just with some ripe cherries added to the strawberry. Slightly darker fruit appears on the palate, with medium density. A balanced and even finish, now with darker cherries. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Volnay, Maison Jessiaume 87-90

A mix of domaine, from the lower part of Brouillards, and purchased grapes from Grands Poisots. Powerful bright purple. The nose shows more new oak than the other wines to date. With that a ripe cherry-raspberry fruit. Plenty of energy but rather dry tannins brought to the fore by the acidity perhaps. The fruit comes back attractively behind. Not perfectly integrated yet, but this may very well knit together better later on. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Volnay Brouillards 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88

Still in barrel. Powerful purple black colour. The bouquet too shows a density of ripe dark fruit. Packs a punch at the beginning but the tannins are too dry. The fruit is a bit over ripe too. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Pommard, Maison Jessiaume 89-91

A mix of domaine and negociant fruit, like the Volnay. Their plot is in Combottes and purchases are from Combes Dessous. Dense rich purple colour. The bouquet is excellent, full of fruit but without the heat seen in Volnay. Good acidity, quite tight, the wood offers some influence at the back. Not over intense but a successful and enjoyable Pommard which could use longer elevage. Tasted: December 2021

2020, Beaune Cents Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91

Old vines of 55 years manage to escape the worst from this free draining soil. Deep purple, the nose has some rich fruit but not cooked. Higher acidity here, tannins are fine-grained enough. Working quite well though obviously also showing the sunny side of the vintage. Tasted: December 2021