SANTENAY
DOMAINE JESSIAUME

This producer is a new one for me. It has changed
hands three times recently, but the young William
Waterkeyn has been looking after the domaine
vines, changing the management to organic and
making the wine since 2014. Under the current
owner, a Parisian doctor, the focus is domaine.
The purchase of grand cru grapes by the négociant
side has been dropped in favor of acquiring regional
vines around Santenay. Only remontage and
rack and return was used, “to make elegant and
accessible Pinot Noir; not light, but to have aging
potential.” I was impressed with Les Ecussaux,
a flat clay climat in Auxey-Duresses, from which
William has coaxed blackberry-rich village wine
and softly textured premiers crus.

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Ecussaux
Violet aromatics. Rounded and rich, yet juicy, with
bold, chunky, and soft tannins and chewy licorice
on the finish giving freshness. 2024–28. | 86–87

Santenay Clos du Clos Genet
Pretty wine. Silky tannins, with a charming ribbon
of red fruit and a lively zesty bite to the finish.
2023–26. | 85

Santenay Premier Cru La Comme
A touch of methyl combines with ripe strawberries
and black pepper on the aroma. The palate shows
distilled sweetness woven with freshness. So
inviting, with cherry and almond notes, rounded off
with some rose-petal aromatics. 2023–30. | 87

Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières
The domaine owns 5.5 of the 28ha (14 of the 70
acres) just under the windmill, with 4ha (10 acres)
in red and the balance in white. Neatly compact
and dense, with a light grip and power. It has a
cold, smoky note. (There is also a separate cuvée,
a selection, which is more concentrated, with
thicker, more velvety tannins and a pronounced
finish.) 2024–32. | 88–89