REDS
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LA COMME, 2021
90
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW(at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
Jessiaume owns a tiny slice (0.167 hectares) of this well-regarded premier cru on the border with Chassagne. In 2021 it delivered ripe pomegranate and red cherry fruit aromas with herbal and floral notes and a touch of earthy complexity. The structure is supple but fresh, with somewhat grippy tannins that draw the wine to a lovely finish. The grapes are destemmed before careful fermentation and ageing in older oak casks for ageing.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, AUXEY-DURESSES, 1ER CRU LES ECUSSEAUX, 2021
91
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
With its fairly deep ruby hue and ripe plummy fruit with hints of spice and earth, this Auxey premier cru from Domaine Jessiaume has more ripeness than many in this appellation. There is a satisfying density and firm but silky tannins that are uncommon for the vintage. The grapes come from a 0.41-hectare southeast-facing parcel of vines. Winemaker William Waterkeyn destemmed the fruit and began with a cold maceration before gentle fermentation and ageing in cask.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, CLOS DU CLOS GENET, 2021
91
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
The Clos Genet lieu-dit is just down-slope from La Cassière; within the vineyard is a half-hectare clos that is a monopole of the domaine that Jessiaume calls the Clos du Clos Genet. The grapes are rigorously sorted and destemmed before fermentation on native yeasts without punching down. The result displays ripe, plummy fruit aromas with earth, rose petals, and spice notes. The texture is velvety and dense, yet there is enough acidity to bring everything into balance. The wine is aged in cask (35% new) without sulfur before bottling.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, VOLNAY, 2021
92
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The village Volnay from Jessiaume is partly young vines from the domaine-owned parcel of premier cru Brouillard, supplemented with purchased grapes from Grand Poisots a bit further down. The combination produced a wine with a lovely dark plum fruit aroma touched with spice. The texture is ripe and supple, with balanced acidity and impressive density. The grapes are mostly destemmed before fermentation and ageing in used casks.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, LA CASSIÈRE, 2021
92
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
Domaine Jessiaume has just retrieved two hectares of this village-level lieu-dit from a fermage contract. The vines lie just below the premier cru La Maladière. Their inaugural vintage for the domaine has a relatively light colour but abundant forward cherry fruit with a floral edge. The texture is supple, yet there is enough tannin and freshness to support the fruit. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in mostly used casks to make this appealing inaugural vintage.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, POMMARD, 2021
92
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The forward aromas of plummy fruit touched with hints of smoke, leather, and earth make this wine immediately appealing. The texture strikes an impressive balance between the firm-ish tannins and fresh acidity. Domaine-owned parcels in Combottes and Combe Dessous are blended with purchased grapes that are completely destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in cask (25% new).
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES, 2021
92
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
This ‘classique’ cuvée of Gravières is what is left after the old vines for the ‘Numerus Clausus’ bottling are removed (approximately 3.8 hectares). The remaining fruit still makes a compelling wine, with ripe red and black berry fruit aromas and hints of violets, earth, and leather. The texture is tannic but not astringent, and the tannins and fresh acidity carry this to a lovely lingering finish with great elegance and finesse. The destemmed fruit is given a cold soak and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new).
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, BEAUNE, 1ER CRU CENT VIGNES, 2021
93
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
The domaine-owned parcel of Cents Vignes has delivered a lovely result in 2021, with a fairly deep ruby hue and aromas of ripe mulberry and peppery, earthy notes. The wine has only moderate density and weight, but the fruit character is sustained straight through the finish. The grapes are destemmed and fermented with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-quarter new). This should drink well young and will improve with five to ten years in the bottle.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, VOLNAY, 1ER CRU BROUILLARDS, 2021
93
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Part of Top Pommard and Volnay 2021 en primeur wines
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The 2021 Brouillards is a pale ruby hue and less forward initially but opens with time. There is a bit of reduction at first, but the wine is much more impressive on the palate, with somewhat imposing tannins and a marvelously lingering finish. The grapes come from a 0.26-hectare parcel of old vines and are partly destemmed and gently fermented before ageing, primarily in used casks.
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES NUMERUS CLAUSUS, 2021
94
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, France, 11 Jan 2022)
Drinking Window: 2027 - 2040
This special selection from the eighty-year-old vines from the domaine's impressive 5.5 hectares of Gravières sets a new standard for Santenay Les Gravières. The wine has significantly more ripeness and depth of blackberry fruit flavours along with marvellous nuances of earth and mineral, liquorice and clove, leather, and menthol on the nose. There is a lovely supple density on the palate and imposing length. Impressive wine by any standard.
Whites
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, AUXEY-DURESSES, 1ER CRU LES ECUSSEAUX, 2021
92
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
The Ecusseaux Blanc from Jessiaume struck me as rich for an Auxey, particularly in 2021. There are ripe apple, quince, and pear aromas with baking spice accents. The texture has impressive density and extract, with plenty of acidity to carry it. Since the site is fairly late to bud in the spring, the losses to frost here wire limited and the domaine produced a normal crop. The grapes were gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (30% new).
DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES, 2021
93
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
This superb white Burgundy boasts a ripe apple, almost tropical fruit aroma with an exotic floral edge; the sweet fruit carries onto the palate, where the wine has a rich texture, lovely density, and impressive length. The grapes come from the northern part of the climat in white marl soils under the influence of the Combe de St. Aubin. The grapes are gently pressed and run into cask (30% new) for fermentation and twelve months’ ageing (without bâtonnage) and will then see another three to four months in tank.
