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Domaine Jessiaume

"Wine is a living thing. It is made, not only by grapes and yeasts, but of skill and patience"

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Domaine Jessiaume

 Vinous Domaine Jessiaume 2021

This is a new addition to my roster, a last-minute one since I receive a visit request that coincides with a free hour at the end of the following day. It demands a hazardous drive through the rain from Morey-Saint-Denis, though I find these wines worth the journey. I meet William Waterkeyn, a young, tousled winemaker, with infectious enthusiasm, at the winery (adjacent to the level-crossing as you enter Santenay).

“Since 2020, the estate has been owned by a French doctor who was in biomedical research,” he explains. “He bought it from Sir David Murray and, before that, the Jessiaume family [who founded the estate in 1850]. I’ve been here for eight years. I used to work at Alex Gambal and with Géraldine Godot [Domaine de l’Arlot]; also, I did one vintage in Oregon at Rex Hill. I’m in charge of all the winemaking. It’s a 15-hectare estate with one-quarter based in the Santenay appellation. We have a négociant side which is about 20% of the volume, though there is just one white and two reds in 2021. We have been organic since 2016 and certified since 2019; we practice low intervention vinification with no SO2 apart from a little during maturation and fermenting with natural yeasts. We do a gentle crushing, just breaking the skins to keep the berries intact, which means the wines sometimes have a carbonic profile. We undertake a gentle extraction, which means we don’t do any pigeage, just remontage and some déléstage with cold maceration, around five days, before alcohol fermentation and a two- or three-week cuvaison. The barrel maturation is in oak barrels for 12 months and then six months in stainless steel for the whites before bottling; the regional wines are bottled the summer before harvest. The reds are aged for 12-16 months in barrel with a couple of months in stainless steel. We use around 15-25% new oak for the Village Crus and one-third new oak for the Premier Crus. We export 80% of our volume.”

I particularly enjoy the Santenays from this address, especially the slightly pretentiously entitled 2021 Santenay Les Gravières "Numerus Clausus" 1er Cru; however, my pick is a superb Beaune Les Cents-Vignes that vies with the Volnay Les Brouillards. The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Les Ecussaux 1er Cru caught my attention from an appellation that did rather well in this difficult vintage. I look forward to returning.

From Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023) by Neal Martin

 

2021 AUXEY-DURESSES VILLAGE

Color: Red

(85-87)

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Village has a light nose with brambly red fruit laced with strawberry pastilles and subtle sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, oddly, reminiscent of a New Zealand Pinot Noir (meant as a complement.) Light but satisfying on the finish.

 

2021 SANTENAY LA CASSIÈRE

Color: Red

(86-88)

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay La Cassière comes from a two-hectare parcel. Baked cherries intermix with loamy scents that gain vigour in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, nicely balanced with a saliva-inducing piquancy on the finish. Modest length, this is a decent, classically-styled Santenay to drink over the next 5-7 years.

 

2021 SANTENAY CLOS DU CLOS GENET

Color: Red

(89-91)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay Clos du Clos Genet comes from a parcel with an actual stone wall, around 0.5-hectares next to the village of Santenay. This has a fragrant nose with brambly red berry fruit, bergamot and Earl Grey, nicely defined with more intensity than the La Cassière. The palate is well balanced with rounded tannins, exhibits fine concentration with a smooth red cherry and crushed strawberry finish, a hint of kirsch on the aftertaste. Very seductive.

 

 

2021 AUXEY-DURESSES LES ECUSSAUX 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(90-92)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Les Ecussaux 1er Cru sees commingling red and black fruit, hints of white pepper and rooibos, delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, quite poised with a judicious touch of white pepper on the finish. Very fine. Just lay this down for 12-18 months.

 

2021 BEAUNE LES CENTS VIGNES 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(91-93)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Beaune Les Cents Vignes 1er Cru comes from a hectare parcel (1.16ha), around 60-year-old vines. This has quite a complex bouquet, fine mineralité and tension with dark cherry fruit mixed cranberry and brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with well integrated oak, very elegant in style. This gently fans out with a sustained, sour cherry and crushed strawberry finish. A tender and quite delicious Beaune.

 

2021 VOLNAY LES BROUILLARDS 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(91-93)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Volnay Les Brouillards 1er Cru has fine presence on the nose, quite complex with dark plum, sous-bois, touches of orange pith and wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins, quite a sensual Volnay, open-knit and generous with raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit mixed with white pepper on the finish. Very promising - though it will be difficult to resist in its flush of youth.

 

2021 SANTENAY LA COMME 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(88-90)

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2032

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay La Comme 1er Cru, from a 0.16-hectare plot, has an enticing bouquet with darker fruit, hints of balsamic and sage, quite complex and mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, one of Jessiaume's more citric cuvées with a hint of orange zest towards the finish. Fine length.

 

2021 SANTENAY LES GRAVIÈRES 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(88-90)

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2032

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru is the main cuvée and comes from a considerable 3.8-hectare parcel. Slightly darker in colour, this has a clean and pure bouquet with dark cherries, citrus fruit - Mirabelle and Clementine, lightly spiced with just a hint of soy. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, harmonious and focused, easygoing in the positive sense of the word. The wood tannins will require a little time to be fully assimilated.

 

2021 SANTENAY LES GRAVIÈRES NUMERUS CLAUSUS 1ER CRU

Color: Red

(90-92)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru comes from a parcel containing the oldest vines that then undergoes a barrel selection - four this year (two new). At the moment, the oak comes through on the nose, though it is simpatico with the fruit. Quite intense considering the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, taut and fresh with a cohesive and quite sustained finish. Cellar this for a couple of years - very fine.

 

2021 BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ

Color: White

86

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2024

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté has a well-defined nose with apple blossom and honeysuckle scents. The palate is simple, rounded in texture with tropical notes of pineapple and mango towards the finish. NB This is bottled under Diam.

 

2021 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY

Color: White

85

Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay has a crisp bouquet with apple blossom and touches of clementine. The palate is well balanced, smooth in texture, fine acidity with a pleasing if slightly innocuous finish.

 

2021 AUXEY-DURESSES LES ECUSSAUX 1ER CRU BLANC

Color: White

(89-91)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2032

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Les Ecussaux 1er Cru Blanc has a very attractive nose with yellow plum, jasmine and freshly baked popcorn nose, well defined and quite vigorous. The palate is well balanced with a very smooth texture, intense and quite long with a slightly honeyed finish, creamy and seductive.

 

2021 SANTENAY LES GRAVIÈRES 1ER CRU BLANC

Color: White

(91-93)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2035

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru Blanc has a gorgeous nose with lemon verbena, orchard fruit, almond and light marzipan scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, harmonious and pure with an almost menthol finish. Superb.

 

2020 BEAUNE LES CENTS VIGNES 1ER CRU

Color: Red

89+

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2020 Beaune Les Cents Vignes 1er Cru has a very intense and quite opulent, yet controlled bouquet with blackberry, blueberry and violet aromas that storm from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite compact, perhaps having closed up a bit since bottling. Rather powerful yet it clearly needs time in bottle.

 

2020 SANTENAY LES GRAVIÈRES 1ER CRU

Color: White

90

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2035

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2020 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru has an open nose with red berry fruit, leather and truffle scents, a little rustic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, nicely balanced yet I feel it is closing up on the finish and will need time.

[date_formatted] => 30/01/2023 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( [0] => 8 [1] => 13 [2] => 6 [3] => 15 [4] => 12 [5] => 14 [6] => 5 [7] => 7 [8] => 17 [9] => 4 [10] => 26 ) ) ) [1] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 125 [is_instagram] => [image] => jmib.jpg [header_image] => jmib.jpg [date] => 2023-01-30 [reading_minutes] => 10 [force_year] => 2021 [created] => 2023-01-30 12:48:47 [locale] => eng [title] => Vintage 2021: Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy [slug] => vintage-2021-jasper-morris-inside-burgundy [introduction_content] => Here is the review of our 2021 wines by Jasper Morris MW. [html_content] =>

Domaine Jessiaume

https://www.insideburgundy.com/tasting_reports/2021-cote-de-beaune-st-aubin-puligny-chassagne-santenay/#p4172 

William Waterkeyn was able to make all his domaine wines, but very little on the negociant side, except the Meursault and a proportion of the Volnay and Pommard cuvées. Production was helped though by the recuperation of 5ha of generic vineyards (Chassey-le-Camp) and Santenay, vineyards which had been out on lease elsewhere. They will make 45,000 bottles this year = 23 hl/ha on average. William decided not to try and force what was not there, but to make the wines as the vintage suggested, hence perfumed reds in a lighter style. He was able to vinify without sulphur after a strict sorting.

 

White

2021, Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Jessiaume 88

In bottle. A clear pale lemon colour. Striking noise of classic Aligoté, with the tangy note that makes one salivate. Quite a mix of flavours n the palate, ripe citrus, greengage, ripe enough but still classic rather than modern. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Maison Jessiaume 86

In bottle. The bouquet feels as though it has been knocked back a bit by the bottling. With time the aromatics start to show, ripe apple notes. A little fresh yellow fruit behind, some length. Easy to appreciate. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Meursault, Maison Jessiaume 87-89

Purchased as must. Fullish yellow colour. The bouquet is quite rich, in part thanks to oak. Medium bodied a streak of lime acidity, a correct if not especially compellingly Meursault. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Clear flamboyant lemon and lime. The fresh but ripe apple fruit is backed by a little oak. Would not want any more of the latter but the fruit can stand up to it. Good weight at the back of the palate. This should continue to build. Slightly more ripe fruit aromatics, with honeysuckle at the back. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-91

Mid lemon and lime. The nose suggests significant volume of fruit, albeit with the oak a little bit forward (30% new wood). Along with a little touch of sucrosity, plus coconut, there is a really impressive density of white fruit here. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022

 

Red

2021, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Jessiaume 87

All domaine now. This is very pale in colour especially at the rim. Really very pretty in its gentle rosé-plus way, and with good persistence. Obviously not very much flesh on the palate but a fine and pretty wine. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay La Cassière, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90

One of the newly recuperated plots, two hectares, lying below 1er cru Maladières and above Clos Genet. Very attractive perfume here, and enough colour in a light crimson sort of way. The fruit is mostly in a raspberry register with a little more arriving at the end. All about the fruit with just enough structure. Good debut! I am almost tempted to a fourth star. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay Clos du Clos Genet, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

A clear bright pale ruby purple. The bouquet has an earthy quality compared to the more floral Cassière. A little more substance and perhaps more what is expected of village Santenay. It is in the mouth that the class shows, with a wealth of ripe strawberry on the palate. Nonetheless destemmed. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay La Comme 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90

One barrel from 0.18ha is a miserable crop. Light to medium crimson, with a slight sweetness of fruit, and some roses. A firmer strain of tannins helps to define the second half of the wine which nonetheless retains a sucrosity. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 90-92

Quite a fine purple colour. The quality of fruit on the nose is really admirable. Quite floral, but with detail and with grip. Hard to see how this could have been better made in 2021. The fruit on the palate is admirably nuanced, and persistent as well. Obviously not blockbuster but a properly fine wine. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 90-93

This cuvée comes from the oldest vines, vinified apart, from which are then selected the best barrels. 10% of the total, so three barrels. Glowing purple. I was suspicious but no, this works. Greater density, not necessarily so much detail readily apparent. Fills out the palate very seductively, through to a finish. Probably is more new but that isn’t the purpose here. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88

These are the village level Ecusseaux vineyards. Pale pink to ruby. A light but not unpleasing nose. Just a touch dry at the finish, but a decent and typical Auxey Duresses. Acidity more than tannins to finish. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Somewhat deeper in colour and certainly denser in bouquet than the village version. Firm at first but some quiet elegant raspberry fruit starts to emerge. There is easily enough flesh to cover the bones, just risks drifting into a feeling of sucrosity. Enjoy the raspberries and roses at the back, with just the right structure. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Volnay, Maison Jessiaume 85-88

Some of their own village Brouillards plus purchased Grand Poisot grapes, vinified together. Palish colour and just a note of volatility. Plenty of attractive fruit on the palate but the edge of purity has been taken off. May be cleaned up by the bottling.. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Pommard, Maison Jessiaume 87-90

A blend of domaine La Combotte plus purchased grapes from En Bœuf. Vivid fresh purple in colour. The nose at this moment is notably reduced. The palate is much less so, which shows that the reduction is not inset. There is a very good volume of fruit here, just a little firmed up at the finish by the reduction. I am expecting this to rate more highly after bottling, assuming the reduction is managed out of the wine. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Volnay Brouillards 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92

Not one of the deeper colours, but rather a fine bouquet. A classically elegant Volnay with refinement. Not massive but the fruit carries all the way through, and with intelligent oaking. A little prickle of acidity to finish. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022

 

2021, Beaune Cents Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91

A clear lighter ruby colour. Not much bouquet at first. Treading lightly but with some style, little red fruits, the lighter side of medium bodied, but holds itself together very well. Fair acidity to finish. Does what it says on the tin but lacks emotion compared to some of the characterful Jessiaume wines. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022

[date_formatted] => 30/01/2023 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( [0] => 8 [1] => 13 [2] => 6 [3] => 24 [4] => 9 [5] => 15 [6] => 12 [7] => 14 [8] => 5 [9] => 7 [10] => 16 [11] => 17 [12] => 25 [13] => 4 [14] => 26 ) ) ) [2] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 122 [is_instagram] => [image] => forbes-logo.jpeg [header_image] => 960x0.jpeg [date] => 2023-01-23 [reading_minutes] => 03 [force_year] => 2021 [created] => 2023-01-27 10:14:56 [locale] => eng [title] => Forbes January 2023 [slug] => forbes-january-2023 [introduction_content] => From Charleston, Fiji, To France, Book These Six Trips By Time Of Year. [html_content] =>

Full article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/lmowery/2023/01/24/from-charleston-fiji-to-france-book-these-six-trips-by-time-of-year/?sh=be7e9a03e128

 

November Bourgogne, France for Hospices de Beaune, Autumn Weather, Budget Travel

If you’ve been dreaming of visiting the world’s most hallowed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards in Burgundy or Bourgogne, as the French now prefer the world call it, November offers several opportunities. First, on November 19th, 2023, the Hospices de Beaune will run again. The event is deemed by many in the wine world the most famous of all charity wine auctions. The story dates to 1443 when the iconic Hôtel-Dieu, located in central Beaune and known for its colorful tiles, was built as a refuge for the sick. The charity proceeds benefit the hospital, a modern facility now located on the outskirts of the city, and other good causes. The Hospices also marks the new vintage. Even if you’re not there to buy, participating in one of the wine world’s oldest, cherished events is a singular experience.

Of course, the popularity of the event raises competition for lodging and room rates, so if you’d rather avoid crowds and delight in low season, pick an earlier or later week to visit. Just remember to pack a jacket and umbrella. While the days are shorter and the sun hangs lower, drinking an earthy red by a cozy fireplace in a historic manor house doesn’t get more French countryside.

For the best value wine to buy and a better assurance of wine being available to buy (poor weather has shrunk recent vintages while prices continue rising from global demand), consider concentrating your time around Marsannay at the northern tip and Santenay at the southern tip of Côte d'Or, respectively, and Côte Chalonnaise. Sitting south of the Côte de Beaune, both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate production in Côte Chalonnaise though the small but fascinating village of Bouzeron is a historic Aligoté-only appellation. The main wine producing areas to visit are Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny, a bit further south. For a nice cross-section, book tastings with Domaine Jean Fournier in Marsannay, Domaine Jessiaume in Santenay, Domaine Xavier et Guillemette Besson in Givry, Domaine Aubert et Pamela de Villaine in Bouzeron, and Château de Chamirey in Mercurey and Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune itself.

[date_formatted] => 23/01/2023 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( ) ) ) [3] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 124 [is_instagram] => [image] => decanter-3-cover.jpg [header_image] => decanter-3-cover.jpg [date] => 2023-01-01 [reading_minutes] => 10 [force_year] => 2021 [created] => 2023-01-27 14:23:31 [locale] => eng [title] => Vintage 2021: DECANTER [slug] => vintage-2021-decanter [introduction_content] => Here is the review of some of our 2021 wines by Charles Curtis MW. [html_content] =>

REDS

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LA COMME, 2021

90

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW(at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
Jessiaume owns a tiny slice (0.167 hectares) of this well-regarded premier cru on the border with Chassagne. In 2021 it delivered ripe pomegranate and red cherry fruit aromas with herbal and floral notes and a touch of earthy complexity. The structure is supple but fresh, with somewhat grippy tannins that draw the wine to a lovely finish. The grapes are destemmed before careful fermentation and ageing in older oak casks for ageing.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, AUXEY-DURESSES, 1ER CRU LES ECUSSEAUX, 2021

91

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
With its fairly deep ruby hue and ripe plummy fruit with hints of spice and earth, this Auxey premier cru from Domaine Jessiaume has more ripeness than many in this appellation. There is a satisfying density and firm but silky tannins that are uncommon for the vintage. The grapes come from a 0.41-hectare southeast-facing parcel of vines. Winemaker William Waterkeyn destemmed the fruit and began with a cold maceration before gentle fermentation and ageing in cask.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, CLOS DU CLOS GENET, 2021

91

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
The Clos Genet lieu-dit is just down-slope from La Cassière; within the vineyard is a half-hectare clos that is a monopole of the domaine that Jessiaume calls the Clos du Clos Genet. The grapes are rigorously sorted and destemmed before fermentation on native yeasts without punching down. The result displays ripe, plummy fruit aromas with earth, rose petals, and spice notes. The texture is velvety and dense, yet there is enough acidity to bring everything into balance. The wine is aged in cask (35% new) without sulfur before bottling.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, VOLNAY, 2021

92

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The village Volnay from Jessiaume is partly young vines from the domaine-owned parcel of premier cru Brouillard, supplemented with purchased grapes from Grand Poisots a bit further down. The combination produced a wine with a lovely dark plum fruit aroma touched with spice. The texture is ripe and supple, with balanced acidity and impressive density. The grapes are mostly destemmed before fermentation and ageing in used casks.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, LA CASSIÈRE, 2021

92

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
Domaine Jessiaume has just retrieved two hectares of this village-level lieu-dit from a fermage contract. The vines lie just below the premier cru La Maladière. Their inaugural vintage for the domaine has a relatively light colour but abundant forward cherry fruit with a floral edge. The texture is supple, yet there is enough tannin and freshness to support the fruit. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in mostly used casks to make this appealing inaugural vintage.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, POMMARD, 2021

92

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The forward aromas of plummy fruit touched with hints of smoke, leather, and earth make this wine immediately appealing. The texture strikes an impressive balance between the firm-ish tannins and fresh acidity. Domaine-owned parcels in Combottes and Combe Dessous are blended with purchased grapes that are completely destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in cask (25% new).

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES, 2021

92

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
This ‘classique’ cuvée of Gravières is what is left after the old vines for the ‘Numerus Clausus’ bottling are removed (approximately 3.8 hectares). The remaining fruit still makes a compelling wine, with ripe red and black berry fruit aromas and hints of violets, earth, and leather. The texture is tannic but not astringent, and the tannins and fresh acidity carry this to a lovely lingering finish with great elegance and finesse. The destemmed fruit is given a cold soak and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new).

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, BEAUNE, 1ER CRU CENT VIGNES, 2021

93

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
The domaine-owned parcel of Cents Vignes has delivered a lovely result in 2021, with a fairly deep ruby hue and aromas of ripe mulberry and peppery, earthy notes. The wine has only moderate density and weight, but the fruit character is sustained straight through the finish. The grapes are destemmed and fermented with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-quarter new). This should drink well young and will improve with five to ten years in the bottle.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, VOLNAY, 1ER CRU BROUILLARDS, 2021

93

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Part of Top Pommard and Volnay 2021 en primeur wines
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045
The 2021 Brouillards is a pale ruby hue and less forward initially but opens with time. There is a bit of reduction at first, but the wine is much more impressive on the palate, with somewhat imposing tannins and a marvelously lingering finish. The grapes come from a 0.26-hectare parcel of old vines and are partly destemmed and gently fermented before ageing, primarily in used casks.

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES NUMERUS CLAUSUS, 2021

94

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, France, 11 Jan 2022)
Drinking Window: 2027 - 2040
This special selection from the eighty-year-old vines from the domaine's impressive 5.5 hectares of Gravières sets a new standard for Santenay Les Gravières. The wine has significantly more ripeness and depth of blackberry fruit flavours along with marvellous nuances of earth and mineral, liquorice and clove, leather, and menthol on the nose. There is a lovely supple density on the palate and imposing length. Impressive wine by any standard.

 

 

Whites

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, AUXEY-DURESSES, 1ER CRU LES ECUSSEAUX, 2021

92

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2035
The Ecusseaux Blanc from Jessiaume struck me as rich for an Auxey, particularly in 2021. There are ripe apple, quince, and pear aromas with baking spice accents. The texture has impressive density and extract, with plenty of acidity to carry it. Since the site is fairly late to bud in the spring, the losses to frost here wire limited and the domaine produced a normal crop. The grapes were gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (30% new).

 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME, SANTENAY, 1ER CRU LES GRAVIÈRES, 2021

93

Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Burgundy, 01 Nov 2022)
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040
This superb white Burgundy boasts a ripe apple, almost tropical fruit aroma with an exotic floral edge; the sweet fruit carries onto the palate, where the wine has a rich texture, lovely density, and impressive length. The grapes come from the northern part of the climat in white marl soils under the influence of the Combe de St. Aubin. The grapes are gently pressed and run into cask (30% new) for fermentation and twelve months’ ageing (without bâtonnage) and will then see another three to four months in tank.

[date_formatted] => 01/01/2023 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( [0] => 13 [1] => 6 [2] => 15 [3] => 12 [4] => 14 [5] => 7 [6] => 16 [7] => 17 [8] => 25 [9] => 4 [10] => 26 ) ) ) [4] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 123 [is_instagram] => [image] => billnanson.png [header_image] => billnanson.png [date] => 2023-01-01 [reading_minutes] => 10 [force_year] => 2021 [created] => 2023-01-27 10:37:36 [locale] => eng [title] => Vintage 2020: Burgundy Report [slug] => vintage-2020-burgundy-report [introduction_content] => Here is the review of our 2021 vintage by Bill Nanson. [html_content] =>

JESSIAUME – 2021
3.1.2023BILLN

Tasted in Santenay with William Waterkeyn, 05 October 2022.

There are new owners here – the previous Scottish ownership exchanged for a Parisian who bought the domaine in August 2020.

William on 2022:


We finished the tank emptying last week. For the whites, many have finished their sugar fermentations – the malos are already finished in a few cases for reds – they are quick when you don’t use sulfur!

William on 2021:


“Here it’s half a harvest and we have almost only domaine wines – there are still some contracts for Volnay, Pommard and Meursault – but not for regionals like in other years. Just 3 wines are bottled at this stage – all Bourgognes: Aligoté, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Some places needed quite a lot of triage – even though they were also of quite low volume – but with good triage, you could still happily work without sulfur during vinification. I worried, of course. The colours are light but I’m happy because there’s material, there’s nice textures and the wines bring pleasure.”

The domaine has expanded a little too: “We had some old fermage contracts which have returned to the domaine, so increasing or surface from 9 to 15 hectares – a mix of regionals plus Santenay villages. We started the first year of organic conversion directly when these vines came back to us.”

The wines…

A success in 2021 – despite my tasting coinciding with the (reduced number of) whites showing a little better than the reds.

The two Bourgognes are bottled, all the others wait in barrel or in their tanks. All the whites and the regionals are sealed with DIAM, since 2019. “I’m still asking the question of whether to do all the whites again in DIAM in 2020 but the regionals are already done!” From south to north:

2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Bottled at the end of August.
A modest colour. Hmm, that’s almost a redcurrant style of berry fruit. Broad, acid-forward but with just enough cushioning from the fruit, stony finishing – there’s lots of flavour here – I’d be tempted to drink young as the acid might turn out to be more prominent with ageing…

2021 Santenay la Cassière
2ha – just under Malaidières 1er – newly back to the domaine – last exploited by the domaine in 2012.
Slightly more colour. This nose with more width but less obviously easy to find the components. Fuller, silkier, sweeter fruit – more impressive balance here for sure. Good length too. That’s a very good wine.

2021 Santenay, Clos du Clos Genet
‘Definitely a clos within the clos,’ ​the vines almost in the village.
Another increase in the depth of colour. Broader, clean red fruit with perhaps a little creamy barrel too. Mouth-filling – a little less generous but with an extra dimension to the flavour and a little more structure too. Keep this a couple of years – there is merit here!

2021 Santenay 1er La Comme
Only just 1 barrel this year.
A little less colour again. That’s a super perfume – there are some whole clusters in this perfume. I like the shape and the complexity of fine flavour here – that’s already a lovely wine. Slightly more serious finishing – but complex too – give it a little patience – but I might already start opening these in a year!

2021 Santenay 1er Gravieres​
An increase in colour again. A faint reduction but also a floral freshness accents this attractive fruit. In the flavour, I have the impression of some whole clusters but there are none. Broad, great texture, eventually a small frame of tannin but without grain. The broadest and most satisfying finish yet. Keep this 2-3 years but with confidence!

2021 Santenay 1er Gravieres Numerus Clausus​
Some vines here about 80-years-old. First a vineyard selection – the old vines – then a barrel selection of the best of those – only 3 barrels this year.
Some extra colour. I sense some oak spice and CO2 here. Yes plenty of CO2. But as the gas fades you have a wine that’s fluid and balanced – even with a faint cushion to the cool fruit. Broad and intense finishing. That, clearly, will be excellent wine!

2021 Auxey-Duresses
In Les Eccuseaux
Pale colour again. Airy and perfumed fruit aromas. Mouth-filling and full of fresh energy – like the Bourgogne this hovers towards an obvious acidity – not quite austere today but another wine that I’d drink young – the flavour is beautifully perfumed, though.

2021 Auxey-Duresses 1er Eccuseaux
Vines next to those above.
Also modest colour but the nose is clearly more profound. A subtle CO2 is visible but also more presence in the mouth – rounder with more cushion to the acidity. The finish is more direct and still with good intensity. Maybe not a wine to keep 10 years but over the next 5 this will be delicious.

2021 Volnay
Maison wine – a mix of some domaine grapes from (villages) Brouillard plus from an almost neighbouring vine in Grand Champs.
Broad, red, slightly cooked fruit but adding an inviting floral perfume in the glass. Mouth-filling and very silky. I love this texture. The shape of this slowly melts over the palate and juicily finishing. That’s very good.

2021 Pommard
A domaine parcel plus a bought one – the domaine in Combottes plus some En Boeuf.
Fuller, deeper, but the latter aroma more driven by a slight reduction – there doesn’t seem much of this in 2021. More melting, ‘easier’ to accommodate flavour and texture on the palate – this is absolutely lovely. Slowly juicy finishing – absolutely excellent – it’s my new favourite!

2021 Volnay 1er Brouillards
All domaine
A nice attack to this red fruit and starting with just a suggestion of floral perfume too. Supple, generous, nicely textured again. Sitting nicely on the palate with just a little extra salinity and juiciness. Delicious wine!

2021 Beaune 1er Cent Vignes​
A little less colour again but what perfume – lovely! Mouth-filling still silky but with a little more evident tannin. Keep a little while but here is a balanced and delicious wine. An excellent wine!

 

Les Whites:

2021 Bourgogne Aligoté
From the recovered domaine parcels – so first vintage here. A parcel in Santenay at the entrance of the village.
A faint DIAM reduction but only for a couple of minutes – then nicely direct pure yellow fruit. Mineral, plenty of acidity maybe a hint extra acidity but the finish is direct and absolutely lovely – chill for the summer – it will be delicious!

2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay​
Only domaine parcels including some new ones that have returned to the domaine – one called Perrières – this was all assembled in the first low-volume vintage but in 22 made separate vinification ‘to see what we have!’
Broader and instantly attractive fresh fruit aromas – more citrus here. This sits nicely on the palate – it is incisive but not too much so. Mouth-watering, deliciously flavoured wine – bravo Bourgogne


2021 Meursault
A blend of parcels for this one – but no Perrières this time 😉
Deep, perhaps a little gassy but also a wine that, blind, I may correctly guess to be Meursault with a fine faint spice component. Mobile. Easy over the palate – again of lovely texture. A small burst of juiciness – which has some width too. Contracts or not, that’s an excellent villages Meursault.

2021 Santenay 1er Gravières Blanc
From two parcels, one lower, one higher – both domaine.​
Extra volume and dimension of fresh and inviting citrus fruit plus faint minerality. A modest bead of CO2, but delicious, mineral-citrus flavour floods the palate, accented with a little barrel, today.

2021 Auxey-Duresses 1er Eccuseaux Blanc
Here there’s a more obvious floral component to the citrus fruit – mainly yellow citrus. Extra mouth-filling volume. Not the ultimate in focus such is the broad complexity on display here. And don’t be concerned if, blind, you think this tastes like Meursault – because I know the label and it still tastes like Meursault to me – and a very good one too. Excellent wine!

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William Waterkeyn continues as gifted winemaker though the domaine is under new ownership. The policy is now to keep all the domaine fruit for their own label, and indeed from 2021 a further five hectares (a mix of Bourgogne Rouge and Village Santenay) which had been leased out will be taken back. The domaine wines are supplemented by a few additional negociant cuvées.

Picking began with white grapes on 24th August. The average yield was 35 hl/ha across the domaine., with degrees from 13 to 13.5% in Santenay but richer in the north hitting 14% in Pommard.  The reds are destemmed, vinified without sulphur and kept in barrel for up to 18 months. The whites and some reds had been racked to tank when I tasted, other reds being still in barrel, unracked.

 

WHITE

2020, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Maison Jessiaume 85

In bottle. Negociant grapes, mostly from the Côte Chalonnaise, with a bit of domaine fruit from Prarons Dessous. Pale lemon colour. Slight tropical fruits and a sweet style of fruit on the palate (albeit vinified fully dry). A touch of pineapple to finish. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Rully, Maison Jessiaume 87-89

Purchased grapes from the Chatalienne vineyard. Pale lemon and lime colour. The bouquet has a mix of fruits, some more exotic than others. Much cleaner and purer in the mouth with fresh apple notes behind, and good acidity with a mineral tingle. Fine persistence. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay, Maison Jessiaume 87-89

Purchased grapes from En Foulot. Fine pale lemon and lime colour. Quite a rich nose with a few exotic notes. Some of the pineapple notes again. Perfumed honeysuckle. In the mouth the wine is a little less evidently ripe, with white fruit and good acidity. Yet the honeysuckle remains in control. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92

Pure pale lemon. The bouquet contains a suggestion of limestone and is less ripe than some of the purchased grape cuvées. Back to the fresh apple profile. Then on the palate the fruit shows additional ripeness, with plums and a certain sucrosity which is not displeasing. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91

Pale lemon colour. The bouquet has ripe apples in the ascendant. This has a stricter style to the fruit but still considerable flesh. There is an agreeable crunchy granny smith quality on the palate, white fruit, some power and length. Well made. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Meursault, Maison Jessiaume 89-91

Purchased grapes, mostly from the lower slope. Pale colour. Ripe rich fruit with a touch of bacon spice. Lively lemon scented fruit too. Good weight here, with depth of ripe citrus, this is fleshing out nicely while retaining balance and a good mineral streak. Tasted: December 2021

 

RED

2020, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Maison Jessiaume 86

In bottle. Purchased grapes from old vines in Couchois. More crimson than purple, a little bit vegetal. A slatey touch which I often find in Couchois wines. Quite intense more strawberry than raspberry, some tannins, firm acidity but the fruit continues through in a long finish. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay Clos du Clos Genet, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Fine, pretty, relatively pale (for the vintage) purple. Immediately juicy strawberry and cherry fruit. There is a fine balance between fruit and acidity with tannins scarcely noticeable. The fruit continues very nicely behind. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay La Comme 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88

A little depth of crimson purple. Ripe raspberry in a very sensual fruit forward style. Not so much in depth and a touch volatile at the back though I don’t pick it on the nose. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90

This year for the first time the domaine has vinified all their Gravières though they have taken out some of the oldest vines for a separate wine. Clear bright purple. Ripe and deep cherry, a very 2020 nose. A little bit closed down on the palate and some dry tannins. Not quite ready to speak yet and I don’t know if the vintage or the terroir will end up taking the lead. If the latter, this wine will rate more highly in the future. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92

This new cuvée represents 10% of the whole Gravières holding, making use of the 60-70- year old vines from old massal selections, below the windmill. Still in barrel. Fine dense bright purple. The power of the vintage is apparent but the fruit is not cooked. Clean fresh bright red fruit, concentrated with good acidity and a fine classy finish without too much heat. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90

Slightly lighter ruby purple, with a fine fresh bouquet, very promising. Crisp, almost crunchy red strawberry fruit with good tannins and a fresh finish. Typical of the appellation and the vintage has just made the fruit a touch more generous. A good success. A little white pepper tingle to finish Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-91

Fuller purple and clearly a riper nose, not necessarily a plus point in 2020. But no, the balance has been retained, just with some ripe cherries added to the strawberry. Slightly darker fruit appears on the palate, with medium density. A balanced and even finish, now with darker cherries. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Volnay, Maison Jessiaume 87-90

A mix of domaine, from the lower part of Brouillards, and purchased grapes from Grands Poisots. Powerful bright purple. The nose shows more new oak than the other wines to date. With that a ripe cherry-raspberry fruit. Plenty of energy but rather dry tannins brought to the fore by the acidity perhaps. The fruit comes back attractively behind. Not perfectly integrated yet, but this may very well knit together better later on. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Volnay Brouillards 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88

Still in barrel. Powerful purple black colour. The bouquet too shows a density of ripe dark fruit. Packs a punch at the beginning but the tannins are too dry. The fruit is a bit over ripe too. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Pommard, Maison Jessiaume 89-91

A mix of domaine and negociant fruit, like the Volnay. Their plot is in Combottes and purchases are from Combes Dessous. Dense rich purple colour. The bouquet is excellent, full of fruit but without the heat seen in Volnay. Good acidity, quite tight, the wood offers some influence at the back. Not over intense but a successful and enjoyable Pommard which could use longer elevage. Tasted: December 2021

 

2020, Beaune Cents Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91

Old vines of 55 years manage to escape the worst from this free draining soil. Deep purple, the nose has some rich fruit but not cooked. Higher acidity here, tannins are fine-grained enough. Working quite well though obviously also showing the sunny side of the vintage. Tasted: December 2021

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REDS

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020 - 92

The wine has a deep violet colour and charming black cherry fruit with an edge of mint. The texture is lively and fresh, but round enough to enjoy in its youth. This is made from grapes purchased from the region of the Côtes du Couchois, south of Santenay. The fruit is completely destemmed and fermented on native yeasts. Unlike the domaine wines it is not certified organic. No sulphur is added until after malolactic.

Driking Window 2023 - 2035

 

Santenay Clos du Clos Gênet 2020 - 92

Slows a ripe plummy fruit character, with a slightly earthy cast. The texture is round, fleshy and enjoyable in its youth. Clos Gênet is a lieu-dit of just over 8ha south of the village od Santenay. Within it lies a walled clos, thus Clos du Clos Gênet.

Drinking Window 2022 - 2035

 

Pommard 2020 - 93

A velvety wine, wine blackberry fruit, a hint of smoke and spice. This is lovely and expressive, with nothing aggressive or hot. This is partly from purchased fruit blended with estate fruit. The vines are in the village-level lieu-dit La Combotte above Rugiens, blended with grapes from the plain on the other side of the village. The fruit is destemmed and gently extracted.

Drinking Window 2023 - 2035

 

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Ecussaux 2020 - 94

Cassis-scented, with a smoky, slightly rustic edge. The texture is rich and somewhat grippy, but there is good depth of flavour here and a pleasantly lingering finish. This 0.41ha parcel faces southeast, up the slope from the stream that runs through the village. The fruit is destemmed and fermented after a short and cold soak.

Drinking Window 2025 - 2040

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards 2020 - 94

Lovely raspberry and blackberry fruit, with a hint of mint, a suggestion of flowers and a note of reduction. The texture is surprinsingly plump and round, and the wine lingers attractively on the finish. This 0.26ha domaine-owned parcel is more than 50 years of age. The fruit was picked ripe, then fermented with 30% whole clusters after a five-day cold soak. Ageing is done in 25% new casks.

Drinking Window 2025 - 2040

 

Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières 2020 - 95

The wine has impressive ripeness, with a rich plum fruit and an earthy edge. There is a lovely intensity on the palate, which shows a concentrated extract, fresh acidity and firmish tannins, giving the wine good complexity and lead to a lingering finish. Jessiaume has almost a quarter of the vines in this preeminent premier cru of Santenay, right under the iconic windmill. Just over 4ha are planted to Pinot on the oolitic limestone soils. Picking started on the 23rd of August, the grapes were destemmend and fermented on native yeats before ageing in cask (20% new).

Drinking Window 2025 - 2040

 

Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 202096

Ripe black plum fruit, with engagingly earthy notes on the nose and a pleasantly brambly edge. There is impressive richness and depth here, with frim tannins and plenty of extract - no one in search of value should overlook this serious wine. Jessiaume owns 5.5ha of Gravières, one of the best premier crus in Santenay. From the 2020 vintage, they are making an old-vine selection of 80-year-old vines done exclusively with vines planted using massale selection.

Drinking Window 2025 - 2050

 

 

WHITES

Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières BLANC 2020 - 93

Strinkingly similar to a Chassagne, with ripe pear fruit and a suggestion of acacia flowers, within a silky and fine texture. Jessiaume has 0.77ha of Chardonnay in Graivères. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and settled overnight before being run into cask (15% new) for fermentation and ageing.

Drinking Window 2023 - 2035

 

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Ecussaux BLANC 2020 - 93

Elegant, nuanced and delicious. The vines are planted at the point of the lieu-dit on south-facing slopes that look at the vineyards of Meursault. The result is a wine that resembles its neighbour - a bit riper than the fruit from Santenay, with more notes of butter and hazelnut. The grapes for this engaging wine were destemment but not crushed, and fermented without sulphur until bottling.

Drinking Window 2025 - 2040

 

 

 

[date_formatted] => 01/01/2022 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( ) ) ) [7] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 119 [is_instagram] => [image] => world-of-fine-wine.png [header_image] => world-of-fine-wine.png [date] => 2022-01-01 [reading_minutes] => 05 [force_year] => 2020 [created] => 2022-12-05 09:32:37 [locale] => eng [title] => Vintage 2020: The World of Fine Wine [slug] => vintage-2020-the-world-of-fine-wine [introduction_content] => Here is the review of some of our 2020 wines by Sarah Marsh MW. [html_content] =>

 

SANTENAY
DOMAINE JESSIAUME

This producer is a new one for me. It has changed
hands three times recently, but the young William
Waterkeyn has been looking after the domaine
vines, changing the management to organic and
making the wine since 2014. Under the current
owner, a Parisian doctor, the focus is domaine.
The purchase of grand cru grapes by the négociant
side has been dropped in favor of acquiring regional
vines around Santenay. Only remontage and
rack and return was used, “to make elegant and
accessible Pinot Noir; not light, but to have aging
potential.” I was impressed with Les Ecussaux,
a flat clay climat in Auxey-Duresses, from which
William has coaxed blackberry-rich village wine
and softly textured premiers crus.


Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Ecussaux
Violet aromatics. Rounded and rich, yet juicy, with
bold, chunky, and soft tannins and chewy licorice
on the finish giving freshness. 2024–28. | 86–87

Santenay Clos du Clos Genet
Pretty wine. Silky tannins, with a charming ribbon
of red fruit and a lively zesty bite to the finish.
2023–26. | 85


Santenay Premier Cru La Comme
A touch of methyl combines with ripe strawberries
and black pepper on the aroma. The palate shows
distilled sweetness woven with freshness. So
inviting, with cherry and almond notes, rounded off
with some rose-petal aromatics2023–30. | 87

Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières
The domaine owns 5.5 of the 28ha (14 of the 70
acres) just under the windmill, with 4ha (10 acres)
in red and the balance in white. Neatly compact
and dense, with a light grip and power. It has a
cold, smoky note. (There is also a separate cuvée,
a selection, which is more concentrated, with
thicker, more velvety tannins and a pronounced
finish.) 2024–32. | 88–89

[date_formatted] => 01/01/2022 [plots] => Array ( ) [winetypes] => Array ( ) ) ) [8] => Array ( [Post] => Array ( [id] => 118 [is_instagram] => [image] => billnanson.png [header_image] => billnanson.png [date] => 2022-01-01 [reading_minutes] => 10 [force_year] => 2020 [created] => 2022-12-05 09:15:47 [locale] => eng [title] => Vintage 2020: Burgundy Report [slug] => vintage-2020-burgundy-report [introduction_content] => Here is the review of our 2020 vintage by Bill Nanson. [html_content] =>

JESSIAUME - 2020
31.12.2020BILLN

 

There are new owners here - the previous Scottish ownership exchanged for a Parisian who bought the domaine in August 2020.

 

William on 2021:

"Half a harvest and of course more in the reds. Actullay, not too ridiculous yileds in the whites - the latest pruned were not so bad but the ealier pruned vines lost the most. So a complicated vintage - frost, mildew was a challenge with all the rain of the year - particularly if you're organic like us. I expect wines with plenty of acidity, not the maturity of the 2020s that we're going to taste, also not the same level of concentration as some of the recent vintages but the half-harvest was still a good foil for the extra rain of the year. I like the aromatics so far - probably an airy, fine style to the wines - better than I could have hoped for. New wines in Santenay came just before the harvest too plus a little Bourgogne and aligoté."

William on 2020:

Not a big volume but here in Santenay it was not too bad. We historically sold some of our production as grapes too but with the new proprietor in 2020 we decided to keep everything. We're very happy with the vintage; the concentration in the wines belies the fact that we averaged close to 40hl/ha in this vintage!

The wines...

What a great set of reds here - you could certainly blind-buy the red wines of this domaine and be happy whatever you got - the quality of the vintage shines through these wines - only the Bourgogne, whilst still tasty, is a step behind! The whites are also very good - and one is great - a Hospices wine - but that might be quite expensive...

The tow Bourgognes are bottled, all the others wait in barrel or in their tanks. All the whites and the regionals ares sealed with DIAM, since 2019. "I'm still asking the question of whether to do all the whites again in DIAM in 2020 but the regionals are already done!" From south to north:

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

From bought grapes from the Côte Couchois

Plenty of colour here. A nice volume of aroma here - with plenty of freshness that hints of whole-cluster but there's only one wine this year with wc - and it's not this one! Like all the wines this year no sulfur during elevage - only at bottle - and no filtration. Round, supple - this is a super year for the Couchois - a fine grain to the tannin but full ripe with a good, tasty, mouth-watering flavor. A very good regional.

2020 Santenay, Clos du Clos Genet

"Definitely a clos within the clos, 'the vines almost in the village."

Less width but an ample and attractive depth to this nose. Silky - the grain of the last practically absent - more concentrated too. This is a big step up with fine layers of flavour. A narrower finish but still much longer, almost perfumed - Really a top villages!

2020 Santenay 1er La Comme

Good depth of colour but not approaching saturated. A narrow nose with, slightly acidulated, darker fruit at the top and much width of generous, perfumed, fruit at the base. Another level of sophistication again, ultra-fine grained tannin that has no dryness. Plush texture but not fat. A great mouthfeel. Broader finishing with a little more length and energy too. Excellent wine - great Comme!

As they have 4 hectares of Gravières, and kept everything this year, they made a second, smaller, cuvée which has higher average vine age and will have a longer elevage - first the general assembly of grapes:

2020 Santernay 1er Gravières

Here the nose is a little tighter - some flashes of dark fruit and flowers but it's not easy to pick out the elements. Super concentration again - just a hint more tannin/structure versus the Comme. Generally less approachable today than the Comme but possibly a longer finish, a suggestion of barrel here today too - which won't last more than a couple of months.

2020 Santenay 1er Gravières Numerus Clausus

Some vines here about 80-years-old.

More open and a nose with more focus on the perfume than the fruit - it's lovely. More concentration but also more energy here - really a wine of complexity and energy. Younger impression in the mouth - the structure more evident - but without the touch of austerity of the last. This will be a great, long, Santenay - dynamic and bravo!

2020 Auxey-Duresses

In Les Ecussaux

The aromatic register changes a little here - more herbs in the complexity but anither wine that favours the perfume over the fruit today. More of mouth-filling wine - a grain of tannin too - mobile, less dense yet still with a fine concentration, even a little fat. A nicely vibrant finish with some faint phenolic bitters as a counterpoint. Delicious and impressively concentrated too. Simply and excellent villages Auxey!

2020 Auxey-Duresses 1er Ecussaux

Vines next to those above.

Hmm - here a deeply concentrated nose - with the fruit in ascendent - really enticingly complex too. Wide, vibrantly flavoured and at the same time an airy style - despite the concentration - that's a highly attractive trait - elegant despite the material - even some salinity in the finishing flavour. Another bravo!

2020 Volnay

Low-slope but Brouillards plus some Grand Poisots. This wine is partly negoce - but all sees triage and elevage here.

Yes! Beautiful depth of crystal-clear red fruit - gorgeous! The tannin is practically absent but there's nothing louche about this wine - it's properly shaped and very mouthwatering. The finish is well-sustained and slowly mouth-watering. Great villages!

2020 Pommard

In Combotte, south Pommard - meagre soil, so not a lot of grapes in the last hotter vintages. As the last wine, a mélange of home and purchased grapes.

A little extra colour here. Freshness that's slightly herbed over a deep, ample, base of fine fruit. Structured buth with hardly visible tannin - like the Volnay - but here with the impression of more concentration - again no fat. A mouthful of tasty and really long wine - this is excellent.

2020 Volnay 1er Brouillards

Lots of colour. Less fully open with a faint suggestion of reduction - the subtle base still not hiding the multi-dimensional aspects of the aroma. Silky, sleek, wide - more direct this wine - despite its width - fresher acidity but balanced by lots of concentration. A wine to wait for but such an impressive wine - il will be worth it - an excellent Volnay 1er.

2020 Volnay 1er Santenaots Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Jéhan

The proprietor bought a barrel of this and a barrel of white.

Ooh - now that's deep colour! An inky-deep nose yet not a bit overbearing. A combination of lightness of touch and amazing but fresh concentration. I rarely find the Hospices wines as good as 'proprietor' wines - there's usually something that is in excess - but this is a seriously impressive wine.

2020 Beaune 1er Cents Vignes

A little more width and crystalline freshness of aroma - it can't complete with the concentration of aroma of the last though! Rounder, more comfortable but at the same time not lacking purity or concentration. An impressive density and length of finishing flavour - not a bit embarrased by the Santenots. Another excellent wine.

Les blancs:

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay

From Santenay and 'north Chalonnaise" Mainly but not all négoce - the red was all négoce. Like the regional red, this is bottled.

Quite a forward and concentrated nose, some herb and rich fruit - almost a little pear and quince. Concentrated, composed, even a little contemplative. This is rich in style but I have to say very tasty too.

2020 Rully

Also a negoce wine from the higher vines of the plateau.

Less aromatic impact but here's an attractive airy complexity. Some richness again but this plays very nicely over th palate, mouth-watering in style. That's a fine and tasty Rully - I like it very mych and a big contract to the last wine.

2020 Santenay Blanc

A parcel in Combe St Jean, in the direction the three crosses exposed directly to the east. Also 100% bought grapes.

A narrower nose but with depth and a suggestion of minerality. Mouth-filling, nicely shaped, certainly the most mineral, accented with nice yellow-citrus fruit. This needs more elevage but there's mich to like here and I think the finish is already more impressive than that of the Rully.

2020 Santenay 1er Gravières Blanc

From two parcels, one lower, one higher - both domaine.

A fresh nose with more clarity to the fruit - though the fruit is a little more tropical. More width of flavour more intensity too. Properly mouth-water which balances the extra richness versus the villages. Also to wait for - there's a lot of material here - but todya I prefer the balance and crisper style of the villages. Finishing with a little lick of tanning the finish here.

2020 Auxey-Duresses 1er Ecussaux Blanc

A braod nose, plenty of weight to the aroma - I'm just hoping that the palate has more energy than the nose suggests. Hmm, actually that's very good. Layered, complex, tasty wine that you could easily pass off as a Meursault from lower in the village. Very tasty if rather round - there's structure enough to carry it off. That's very good wine.

2020 Meursault

All negoce

More freshness and width to this nose - Meursault ? - yes, it could be! A little more mineral than the last and more mouth-watering too - a better balance. Silky and concentrated but never too much. That's a very good Meursault.

2020 Beaune Montrevenots Blanc Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Suzanne et Raymond

Not an overly oaky nose - they changed the barrel - some oak spice but genereally a more mineral and citrus blend. Ooh - that's super, concentrated but intense and mouth-watering - long too. Wow - I'm shocked, a really great wine from the Hospices - actually two here - bravo!

 

 

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Domaine Jessiaume 1er Cru Les Gravières - 2018

Dry white wine - Santenay
Note : 93/100
Dégustation : année 2021

Beautiful light yellow. Profound, elegant nose where delicate fruit and floral
aromas are augmented by a subtle mint and oak note. The palate displays fat,
a remarkably well-integrated silky texture and persistent mineral freshness.

 

 

Maison Jessiaume Vintage - 2018

Dry white wine - Santenay
Note : 90/100
Dégustation : année 2021

Brilliant light yellow. Delicate nose combining fresh white peach and fresh
herbs. The palate shows a seductively fleshy attack, silky texture and
freshness. The oak is very subtle and soft in this successful Santenay.

 

 

Domaine Jessiaume 1er Cru Les Ecussaux - 2018

Red wine - Auxey-Duresses
Note : 93/100
Dégustation : année 2021

Beautiful, young-looking bright red. Very pure, fruity nose suggestive of red
berry fruits and stone fruits. Great presence on the palate where the fruit and
oak sit successfully side by side. A terroir-driven wine with oodles of character.

 

 

Maison Jessiaume Vintage - 2018

Red wine - Volnay
Note : 92/100
Dégustation : année 2021

Beautiful deep garnet. Very pure nose offering up faultless fruit with very
seductive ripe cherry notes. The palate is dense yet velvety with a really lovely
mouthfeel and freshness that carries the fruit over substantial length.

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1,177 wines have been tasted by Charles Curtis and 67 were selected including our Santenay 1er Cru La Comme 2019.

 

Also, Charles Curtis mentionned Domaine Jessiaume in his top 10 producers to watch.

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Wine: the Trophée Jeunes Talents have finally been awarded.


Tuesday February 2, at the Domaine Chevalier in Ladoix-Serrigny, the two sponsors of the Trophée Jeunes Talents tasted the finalists' wines and bestowed the winners of a unique competition. Usually organized during the wine sale of the Hospices de Beaune in November, the Trophée Jeunes Talents rewards the best winemakers under 40 years old.

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Vintage 2021: Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy

read the article 30.01.2023

Vintage 2021 : Vinous

read the article 30.01.2023

Forbes January 2023

read the article 23.01.2023

Domaine Jessiaume

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