Domaine Jessiaume
William Waterkeyn was able to make all his domaine wines, but very little on the negociant side, except the Meursault and a proportion of the Volnay and Pommard cuvées. Production was helped though by the recuperation of 5ha of generic vineyards (Chassey-le-Camp) and Santenay, vineyards which had been out on lease elsewhere. They will make 45,000 bottles this year = 23 hl/ha on average. William decided not to try and force what was not there, but to make the wines as the vintage suggested, hence perfumed reds in a lighter style. He was able to vinify without sulphur after a strict sorting.
White
2021, Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Jessiaume 88
In bottle. A clear pale lemon colour. Striking noise of classic Aligoté, with the tangy note that makes one salivate. Quite a mix of flavours n the palate, ripe citrus, greengage, ripe enough but still classic rather than modern. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Maison Jessiaume 86
In bottle. The bouquet feels as though it has been knocked back a bit by the bottling. With time the aromatics start to show, ripe apple notes. A little fresh yellow fruit behind, some length. Easy to appreciate. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Meursault, Maison Jessiaume 87-89
Purchased as must. Fullish yellow colour. The bouquet is quite rich, in part thanks to oak. Medium bodied a streak of lime acidity, a correct if not especially compellingly Meursault. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90
Clear flamboyant lemon and lime. The fresh but ripe apple fruit is backed by a little oak. Would not want any more of the latter but the fruit can stand up to it. Good weight at the back of the palate. This should continue to build. Slightly more ripe fruit aromatics, with honeysuckle at the back. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-91
Mid lemon and lime. The nose suggests significant volume of fruit, albeit with the oak a little bit forward (30% new wood). Along with a little touch of sucrosity, plus coconut, there is a really impressive density of white fruit here. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022
Red
2021, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Jessiaume 87
All domaine now. This is very pale in colour especially at the rim. Really very pretty in its gentle rosé-plus way, and with good persistence. Obviously not very much flesh on the palate but a fine and pretty wine. Drink from 2023-2025. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay La Cassière, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90
One of the newly recuperated plots, two hectares, lying below 1er cru Maladières and above Clos Genet. Very attractive perfume here, and enough colour in a light crimson sort of way. The fruit is mostly in a raspberry register with a little more arriving at the end. All about the fruit with just enough structure. Good debut! I am almost tempted to a fourth star. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay Clos du Clos Genet, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90
A clear bright pale ruby purple. The bouquet has an earthy quality compared to the more floral Cassière. A little more substance and perhaps more what is expected of village Santenay. It is in the mouth that the class shows, with a wealth of ripe strawberry on the palate. Nonetheless destemmed. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay La Comme 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 87-90
One barrel from 0.18ha is a miserable crop. Light to medium crimson, with a slight sweetness of fruit, and some roses. A firmer strain of tannins helps to define the second half of the wine which nonetheless retains a sucrosity. Drink from 2024-2028. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 90-92
Quite a fine purple colour. The quality of fruit on the nose is really admirable. Quite floral, but with detail and with grip. Hard to see how this could have been better made in 2021. The fruit on the palate is admirably nuanced, and persistent as well. Obviously not blockbuster but a properly fine wine. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 90-93
This cuvée comes from the oldest vines, vinified apart, from which are then selected the best barrels. 10% of the total, so three barrels. Glowing purple. I was suspicious but no, this works. Greater density, not necessarily so much detail readily apparent. Fills out the palate very seductively, through to a finish. Probably is more new but that isn’t the purpose here. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Jessiaume 86-88
These are the village level Ecusseaux vineyards. Pale pink to ruby. A light but not unpleasing nose. Just a touch dry at the finish, but a decent and typical Auxey Duresses. Acidity more than tannins to finish. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Auxey-Duresses Les Ecusseaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 88-90
Somewhat deeper in colour and certainly denser in bouquet than the village version. Firm at first but some quiet elegant raspberry fruit starts to emerge. There is easily enough flesh to cover the bones, just risks drifting into a feeling of sucrosity. Enjoy the raspberries and roses at the back, with just the right structure. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Volnay, Maison Jessiaume 85-88
Some of their own village Brouillards plus purchased Grand Poisot grapes, vinified together. Palish colour and just a note of volatility. Plenty of attractive fruit on the palate but the edge of purity has been taken off. May be cleaned up by the bottling.. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Pommard, Maison Jessiaume 87-90
A blend of domaine La Combotte plus purchased grapes from En Bœuf. Vivid fresh purple in colour. The nose at this moment is notably reduced. The palate is much less so, which shows that the reduction is not inset. There is a very good volume of fruit here, just a little firmed up at the finish by the reduction. I am expecting this to rate more highly after bottling, assuming the reduction is managed out of the wine. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Volnay Brouillards 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-92
Not one of the deeper colours, but rather a fine bouquet. A classically elegant Volnay with refinement. Not massive but the fruit carries all the way through, and with intelligent oaking. A little prickle of acidity to finish. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022
2021, Beaune Cents Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Jessiaume 89-91
A clear lighter ruby colour. Not much bouquet at first. Treading lightly but with some style, little red fruits, the lighter side of medium bodied, but holds itself together very well. Fair acidity to finish. Does what it says on the tin but lacks emotion compared to some of the characterful Jessiaume wines. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022
